Spicyicecream

Chocolate and Raspberry

Bourke Street Bakery. Utter those words and a good percentage of Sydney foodies will sigh happily with thoughts of their gorgeous ginger brulee tartlets, signature sausage rolls or their excellent coffee. I was lucky enough to be within walking distance of their now-defunct Broadway operation when I was at college and it became a regular haunt for mid-morning caffeination, an amazing sandwich at lunchtime or an afternoon sugar hit.

When I heard that Paul Allam and David McGuinness were about to release a Bourke Street Bakery cookbook, I was more excited than I’d care to admit and immediately ordered it. When it arrived, I stroked the cover and pored over the pages, knowing that soon there would be stains and flour between the pages. It was a bigger book than I’d expected, coming in at over 350 pages, with beautiful photography throughout. I joked with friends who know how relaxing making bread can be, that I would be so zen when I’d managed to get all the way through the book!

The first recipe I tried was for some absolutely delicious chocolate and raspberry muffins, and they did not disappoint. They were so simple to prepare, basically just using one bowl, which saves on some washing up. I also really liked that they were not overly sweet, unlike a lot of muffins you find in other cafes or coffee shops. The flavour combination was also spot on, but I think this would be a good base recipe for a variety of other flavours – anything you can think up! They would be equally perfect as a decadent breakfast or an afternoon snack with a cup of tea.

Dark Chocolate and Raspberry Muffins
Recipe adapted from Bourke Street Bakery by Paul Allam and David McGcuinness
Makes 12 or 24 depending on your muffin tin

• 400g (2 2/3 cups) plain flour
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 300g caster sugar
• 310g unsalted butter
• 480ml buttermilk
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 3 eggs
• 225g dark chocolate, roughly chopped
• 225g raspberries, fresh or frozen
• 55g raw sugar
• Icing sugar, for dusting

1. Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F). Lightly grease a 12-hole muffin tin and line with paper cases.
2. Sift the flour and baking paper into a bowl and add the sugar, mixing well to combine.
3. Melt the butter in a saucepan over low heat, then remove from the heat and stir in the buttermilk. Using a whisk stir in the eggs to combine. Pour over the dry ingredients and whisk to combine. Use a large spoon to gently fold through the chocolate and raspberries.
4. Spoon the mixture into the prepared muffin tins. Sprinkle the tops with raw sugar. Reduce the oven temperature to 180°C (350°F) and bake for 20-25 minutes. It may be necessary to drop the temperature about 10 minutes before the end of baking time if the muffins are starting to brown on top.
5. To test if the muffins are done, push the top gently to feel that it is firm. Remove from the oven and allow to cool in the tins for 10 minutes before eating. Dust with icing sugar to serve.

Sparrow Kitchen & Bar

I recently got back from one of the nicest holidays I’ve had in a long time. Adelaide is the capital of South Australia, a two-hour flight from Sydney, and a really lovely little city. Quiet maybe but definitely not boring, with so many fabulous restaurants to try, and one of the most amazing produce markets I’ve ever seen right in the center of the city. I’ve only been home for a week, but I’m already thinking about going back. One of my favourite restaurants we visited was called Sparrow Kitchen and Bar in North Adelaide, a short cab ride (we had a mental taxi driver who was too busy pointing out the landmarks to worry that he was driving on the wrong side of the road) or a 30-minute walk from the city center. I read about the restaurant in the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide, and with a dish called Duck Donuts on the menu, it was clear that I had to visit.

I fancied the quirky yet classy décor, especially the sparrow pictures coloured in by kids in the hallway near the bathrooms. The menu was comprehensive, covering everything from tapas to seafood to pizzas and a wine list that left you spoiled for choice. It was a quiet Thursday lunch on our first visit, when we were told the sad news that their pizza oven was on the fritz, but the rest of the menu was available. Unfortunate, since the both of us had our eye on the pizzas, but it nonetheless gave us a reason to return.

There was a nice selection of tapas, though items were priced and served individually which sort of goes against the “sharing” concept that is usually associated with tapas. We of course tried the duck donuts with porcini salt ($3.80 each), a crispy dough exterior giving way to tender shredded duck meat inside. It was very flavoursome and a great blend of textures. I could have eaten many more of these, and sort of wish I had.

I can never go past a mini wagyu burger, there is something so cute about them. This was served with pancetta and beetroot crisp ($5.80), and although this one was delicious, nothing can compare to those we had from Etch at the Taste of Sydney launch. We also tried the Giant South Australian prawn with garlic and lemon ($8.50), and I don’t think I’ve ever seen a bigger prawn in my life! It was very tasty, although slightly messy to eat as we had to shell it ourselves.

On our second visit, we ordered fewer tapas, knowing how full we were after last time. The braised pork and fennel sausages ($12) were tiny in size but full of flavour, served in a tomato sauce. I had a lone mushroom arancini ($3.50) which was one of the nicest I’ve ever had – perfectly cooked risotto, with a golden and crispy fried exterior.

With pizzas out of the question, we both settled on pasta dishes. There was a great variety with very unique flavour combinations. The angel hair with cockles, peas and mint ($14.90) also went down well, with great fresh ingredients. It was a very summery dish that I think worked quite well.

For me, it was quite a tough decision between Rabbit Linguine with almonds and thyme, Pappadelle with beef cheek ragu and the Spaghetti with goat meatballs, nutmeg and basil but I was happy with my choice of spaghetti ($16.90). The entrée serving was very generous and I loved every bite. The meatballs were perfect and flavoursome with the addition of fennel seeds, and I thought this was a very successful modern take on a classic pasta dish that teamed perfectly with the glass of New Zealand Pinot Noir I was drinking.

On our second visit, thankfully, the pizza oven was back in working order. The scallop pizza was a relatively new addition to the menu, which has not been updated on the website yet, so sorry no price for this one. It was served with red cabbage and pesto. The flavours were interesting but I don’t think I would order this for myself.

However, I was very happy with my choice of BBQ Rabbit Pizza with home made BBQ sauce, rosemary and fontina ($17.90). I hadn’t eaten rabbit in a long time, and didn’t know that it was actually white meat! The pizza had a great blend of sophisticated and yet homely flavours that worked well and I really enjoyed it.

We were seriously full by this point, but luckily my second stomach kicked into gear when asked if we’d like to see the dessert menu. There several intriguing dishes that caught my fancy, but we decided to share some churros with chocolate sauce ($8.50). The churros were nice, although I would have preferred a thicker, richer chocolate sauce to dip into.

On our second visit, the lovely waitress convinced me that I must try the Treacle tart with goat’s cheese ice cream ($7.50). I liked the deconstructed approach, with the toasted bread crumbs served separately from the tart.
It was a rather small serving, but quite delicious. Neither the tart nor the ice cream were very sweet though, and perhaps just boosting the sugar a tiny bit would have made it even better.

The Crema catalana ($9) was a big success though, with the telltale visible vanilla seeds and a delicate flavour. I was, however expecting the top to be bruleed and crunchy, but it was a liquid caramel like you’d find in a crème caramel. And so, both times we left happy, with full tummies after lazy long lunches. I especially liked the mix of classiness and quirkiness in the décor, and the unique reinterpretations of classic dishes with some of South Australia’s finest produce that really characterise the menu. I think it’s safe to say I’ll be back for a third visit next time I’m in town – they serve breakfast on the weekend as well!

Sparrow Kitchen & Bar – 10 O’Connell St North Adelaide

Chicken Pho

I have been a little naughty, and have missed a few Daring Cooks challenges in the last few months due to lack of time and inspiration. But when I saw this month’s challenge, hosted by the lovely Jaden of Steamy Kitchen, I knew that I would dust off my tongs and get back into the game. The challenge was to make Vietnamese Pho, from Jaden’s brand new book, The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook. I love Vietnamese food, and was pretty excited about making my own Pho for the first time.

We were given the option to either make a quick version from the cookbook, or to make the stock from scratch using a recipe that Jaden had posted on her blog. I was running a little short of time towards the end of the month, and had some homemade chicken stock in the freezer that I used as the base for my Pho. It came together really quickly, which makes it absolutely perfect for a fuss-free weekend lunch or midweek dinner. I really liked the flavour that came from toasting the spices, and will absolutely be making this again in the future.

The October 2009 Daring Cooks’ challenge was brought to us by Jaden of the blog Steamy Kitchen. The recipes are from her new cookbook, The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook.

Chicken Pho
Recipe from The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook
Serves 4

Broth
• 2 tablespoons whole coriander seeds
• 4 whole cloves
• 2 whole star anise
• 2 litres chicken stock (store-bought or homemade)
• 1 whole chicken breast
• ½ onion
• 1 3-inch (7.5cm) chunk of ginger, sliced and smashed with the side of a knife
• 1-2 tablespoons sugar
• 1-2 tablespoons fish sauce

• 500g dried rice noodles

Accompaniments
• 2 cups bean sprouts, washed and tails pinched off
• Fresh coriander (cilantro) tops, leaves and tender stems
• ½ cup shaved red onions
• ½ lime, cut into wedges
• Sriracha chilli sauce
• Hoisin sauce
• Sliced fresh chilli peppers of your choice

1. To make the chicken pho broth, heat a frying pan over medium heat. Add the coriander seeds, cloves and star anise and toast until fragrant, about 3-4 minutes. Immediately spoon out of the pan to avoid burning.
2. In a large pot, add all the broth ingredients including toasted spices and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and let simmer for 20 minutes, skimming the surface frequently as required.
3. Use tongs to remove the chicken and shred the meat. Taste the broth and add more fish sauce, or sugar if needed. Strain the broth and discard the solids.
4. Prepare the noodles as per the directions on the packet. Ladle the broth into bowls and divide the shredded chicken and soft noodles evenly into each bowl.
5. Have the accompaniments spread out on the table. Each person can customise their bowl with these ingredients.

Emmilou Tapas Bar

I love the concept of tapas and share plates, and when done well, they form the makings of a great night out, along with a couple of cocktails of course! I was recently contacted by Chris from Emmilou Tapas Bar in Surry Hills to see if I would like to come down for dinner. I couldn’t answer yes fast enough – not only had Emmilou been on my list of restaurants to visit for some time, but I had also just read Shez’s glowing review earlier the same day and was very excited about it.

Chris welcomed us with a smile and showed us to the bar where we were shown a very comprehensive and exciting cocktail list – just what we needed to start our Friday night. Steph picked one of Emmilou’s signature drinks – the Jamaican Julep with rum, passionfruit, fresh mint and hints of apricots while I decided on the exotic Bah-teeh-dah with Cachaca, citrus, passionfruit, apple and vanilla sugar, which was refreshing with a great blend of flavours.

We were shown to our table outside, unfortunately it was quite dark, hence the quality of the photos. We started with seared scallops and whitebait beignets served with smoked pepper oil and squid ink aioli, an interesting dish in terms of flavour. Next up was the Jamon – delicious melt-in-your-mouth Serrano ham with sourdough and olive oil. It was great to nibble while sipping a cocktail and soaking up the atmosphere.

The sardines on toast with sweet chilli salsa was a great play on flavours, and one that I enjoyed more than I thought I would. It was also beautifully presented, and all round a very successful dish.

The duck liver parfait is a signature dish at Emmilou and we were very happy to get to try it. It was served with crunchy sourdough toast and fried beetroot. It was very moreish and delicious.

When we were asked if there were any dishes we would like to try in particular, I was talked into the wagyu beef brisket, but unfortunately I didn’t read the whole description which included salsa verde and an almond sauce so when it arrived, Steph couldn’t try it due to her nut allergy. Sorry Steph! I loved it though, it was a delicious meld of flavours, and I only wish I could have managed to eat the whole thing, but I struggled just to eat my half. I always forget that tapas are deceptively filling.

The staff at Emmilou were attentive and friendly, with water glasses constantly being topped up throughout the evening and great recommendations from the menu. We were amazed at how busy it became as the night went on, with people stopping in for just a quick cocktail or a full meal. We barely made a dent in the menu, so I would definitely come back to try some other dishes (and cocktails). Thanks again to Chris and the team for having us down!

Emmilou Tapas Bar – 413 Bourke St, Surry Hills.
9360 6991 www.emmilou.com.au

Spicy Icecream dined courtesy of Emmilou Tapas Bar.

Sunny Lemon

Do you have a little old house and a lemon tree?

One of my favourite songs at the moment is ‘Coin Laundry’ by Lisa Mitchell, a very young and very talented Australian singer. The song is the right mix of catchy pop and whimsy, the kind of song you enjoy when it gets stuck in your head. I also love any singer who has tea towels as part of their merchandise, and yes, I was very tempted to buy one at her concert last week, and not just because we share the same name! But I bring up this song not only to share the love, but for the lyric above, which made me want, more than anything, a little old house and a lemon tree. So I could make these lemon bars on brown butter shortbread as often as I wanted.

These little beauties are this month’s recipe from the Tartine Bakery cookbook. It’s hard to believe we’re now nine months into this project, and I’ve got to say, I’ve loved almost every recipe I’ve tried so far (yes, even the brioche). These sunny lemon bars were no exception – a delicious and simple slice that would be just perfect to take to a spring picnic. I’ve been thinking a lot about picnics lately, now that the weather is warming up. It travels well and only needs a liberal dusting of icing sugar, but if you wanted to get really fancy, I imagine that bruleeing the top would be divine.

Before I read through the recipe, I imagined you would have to actually brown butter to make the shortbread, but no – simply bake the crust until it’s a deep golden brown. I was in a bit of a rush at the time so mine wasn’t as golden as it could have been, but it was definitely still delicious. The original recipe also suggested using pine nuts in the shortbread crust also, which I think would make an interesting addition. The lemon filling itself is divine. I liked the balance of flavours – it was a little bit tart but not overly so, though the recipe can be easily tinkered with to suit your own preference.

Don’t forget to check out Mark’s post over the next few days, on his blog No Special Effects

Lemon Bars on Brown Butter Shortbread
Recipe from Tartine

Crust
• ½ cup icing sugar
• 1 ½ cups plain flour
• 170g unsalted butter, room temperature

Filling
• ½ cup all purpose flour
• 2 ¼ cups sugar
• 1 cup lemon juice
• Zest of 1 small lemon
• 6 large whole eggs
• 1 large egg yolk
• Pinch salt

• Icing sugar, to dust (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F) and line a 22 x 30 (9-by-13inch) baking pan with non-stick baking paper.
2. To make the crust, sift the icing sugar into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the flour and stir to mix. Add the butter and beat on low speed until a smooth dough forms.
3. Transfer the dough to the prepared pan and press evenly into the bottom and 1.5cm up the sides of the pan. To even out the crst, use the flat bottom of any type of cup and press down firmly.
4. Line the crust with baking paper and fill with pie weights. Bake until it colours evenly to a deep golden brown – 25 to 35 minutes.
5. While the crust is baking, make the filling. Sift the flour into a mixing bowl, add the sugar and whisk to combine. Add the lemon juice and zest and stir to dissolve the sugar.
6. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs and egg yolks with the salt, and then add to the lemon mixture and whisk until well mixed.
7. When the crust is ready, pull out the oven rack and pour the filling directly into the hot pan. Reduce the oven temperature to 150°C (300°F) and bake until the center of the custard is no longer wobbly, about 30 to 40 minutes.
8. Let cool completely on a wire rack, and then cover and chill completely before cutting. Use a sharp knife to cut into 12 squares and cust with icing sugar if desired. They will keep in an airtight container for up to 4 days.

Yoyos with White Chocolate Passionfruit Ganache

What do you do when you’re feeling down? Curl up on the couch with a chickflick and comfort food? A girly gossip session with wine and chocolate? Maybe something to stimulate the creative juices again? I’ve recently started a small veggie garden, and there is something so satisfying about seeing things grow (only the zucchini so far, but I have hope for the others) or I make playlists of songs that remind me of summer days, and smile at the Daily Puppies.

But it seems that that no matter what mood I’m in, baking usually makes me feel better. It can turn a bad day around, or make a good day even better. Combining butter, flour and sugar is like therapy. It seems I need to bake a lot these days; I think I’ve lost my happy a little bit.

And that’s where these little morsels come in. Sunny white chocolate and passionfruit ganache is sandwiched between dainty cookies. I dare you not to smile after you’ve tasted one. The ganache is just right – not too sweet, with the subtle tang of passionfruit cutting the sweetness of the chocolate. The cookies are crumbly, buttery and perfect. And after spending a nice afternoon pottering around the kitchen (listening to my summer mixtape), eating them was almost as great as baking them.

Yoyos with White Chocolate Passionfruit Ganache
Adapted from Gourmet Traveller
Makes about 24

Biscuits
• 180g butter, softened
• 90g pure icing sugar
• 1/3 cup passionfruit juice*
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 ½ cups plain flour
• 2/3 cup cornflour

White Chocolate and Passionfruit Ganache
• 90ml pouring cream
• 45ml passionfruit juice*
• ½ teaspoon vanilla extract
• 180g white chocolate, finely chopped

* To make passionfruit juice, blend passionfruit pulp in a food processor to crack seeds, then strain through a fine sieve.

1. For ganache, combine cream, juice and vanilla in a saucepan and bring just to the boil over medium-high heat. Place chocolate in a bowl, pour the hot cream over and whisk until smooth. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or until thick.
2. For the biscuits, beat butter and sugar with an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Add juice and beat until combined. Add the flour and cornflour and mix until just combined. Turn onto a floured surface, form into a disc, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 1 hour.
3. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Rill out pastry to 8mm thick, and using a 3cm cutter (mine was about 5cm), cut rounds from pastry and place on baking paper lined oven trays.
4. Press scraps into a ball, re-roll and repeat. Bake for 8-10 minutes or until just golden. Cool on trays for 5 minutes and then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.
5. Spread half the biscuits with a teaspoon each of ganache, sandwich with remaining biscuits and stand until set.

Elmo Cupcakes

When I make cupcakes, I usually don’t get too creative with the decorating, even though I always admire the beautiful ones in cake shop windows and cookbooks. If we’re being honest, the piping bag rarely comes out when I’m icing cupcakes, and it’s usually a slap-dash spatula affair. But a little while ago, my sister and I were asked if we could make some cupcakes for my cousin Cooper’s 4th birthday party. And we all know how much Cooper likes cupcakes, and Elmo!

I considered making red velvet cupcakes at first, to keep with the theme of Elmo’s red fur but changed my mind because how much red food colouring was required, and the fact that we might have some hyperactive four-year-olds on our hands! I made a vanilla butter cake, always a good recipe to have in your repertoire, and this is just about the easiest in the world. The icing was a simple butter cream coloured red, and we used a star tip to pipe the “fur”.

To decorate Elmo, we used white marshmallows cut in half for his eyes, and then with a skewer and some melted dark chocolate, we created the pupil. His nose was an orange Mentos, and his mouth was made from a chocolate coated biscuit cut in half. We were pretty happy with the result! They were a big hit at the party with kids and adults alike, and again, I was reminded of the pulling-power of cupcakes, they never fail to garner a smile.

Elmo Cupcakes

Vanilla Butter Cake
• 90g butter, softened
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• ½ cup caster sugar
• 2 eggs
• 1 cup self-raising flour
• 2 tablespoons milk

Buttercream Frosting
• 125g butter, softened
• 1 ½ cups icing sugar
• 2 tablespoons milk
• Red food colouring

To decorate
• White marshmallows
• Melted Dark chocolate
• Orange Mentos
• Chocolate coated biscuits, cut in half

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Line a 12-hole muffin pan with paper cases.
2. Beat butter and sugar together until light and fluffy. Add vanilla, eggs and beat until combined. Add flour and milk and beat until mixture is pale in colour.
3. Divide mixture among cases and smooth surface. Baker for about 20-25 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean. Turn onto a wire rack to cool.
4. To make buttercream, beat butter with an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Beat in sifted icing sugar and milk in two batches, and then add red food colouring one tablespoon at a time until the colour is bright red.
5. Use a piping bag fitted with the star tip to make Elmo’s red ‘fur’. Slice marshmallows in half horizontally with a thin knife. Use a skewer dipped in melted dark chocolate to make the pupils and assemble the cupcake.

Makan@Alice’s

Teh Tarik – Pulled Malaysian Milk Tea

It started with an email from Karen, who had a craving for Malaysian. I was curious, as I’d never tried any Malay cuisine, but had been hearing so much about the Sydney food bloggers’ favourite restaurants and was eager to finally try it for myself. We quickly decided on Alice’s in Thornleigh, one of Steph’s local favourites, and I decided to go with the flow and let them order for me! I was surprised at how busy the restaurant was for a Sunday lunch, and how lucky we were to snaffle the last table! Because it was a warm day, we started with an iced Teh Tarik, which is apparently usually a little sweeter and more frothy. I think this would have made a difference, but it was good.

Hainanese Chicken Rice – Steamed Chicken with Flavoured Rice

You can’t think of Malaysian food without thinking about Chicken Rice. Perhaps you need to be Malaysian to appreciate it fully, but I loved it anyway. The flavours of the garlic and soy went perfectly with the beautifully cooked chicken thigh.

Roti Canai & Curry – Pan-Fried Roti Canai Bread with Chicken Curry

I was a little bit unsure about the chicken curry, as I am not a huge fan of curry just generally, but it was surprisingly delicious. Served with crispy roti, it was very flavoursome without being overpowering, and I definitely wouldn’t hesitate to order it again.

Butter Soft Shell Crab – Soft Shell Crab with butter, eggs, curry leaves & fresh chilli

But my favourite dish of the day had to be the Butter Soft Shell Crab. It was naughty but oh so nice, delightfully crispy and perfectly cooked. I especially loved the egg. It was a very generous serving, and we ended up having to ask for a takeaway container because we couldn’t finish it. Lucky me, I ended up with the leftovers!

Pulut Hitam – Sweet Black Glutinous Rice Dessert with a Dash of Coconut Milk

Karen says this is her favourite dessert, a delicious creamy black rice, served warm with a generous swirl of coconut milk. I enjoyed it too, I thought I could taste red bean but it might have been my imagination! The coconut milk added an extra dimension of taste and creaminess that worked so well.

Ice Kacang – Shaved Ice with Jelly, Creamed Corn, Red Beans in Gula Melaka & Milk

Creamed corn in dessert? I was willing to give it a try, especially since it was a hot day and the shaved ice seemed particularly inviting. It exploded with different flavours and textures in every spoonful that complemented each other so nicely. It was a surprising but immensely enjoyable meal, and I’m looking forward to the next time someone has a craving for Malaysian food.

Makan @ Alices – 262-264 Pennant Hills Rd, Thornleigh

The Intensity

A little while ago, I received an email from Emma at Bang PR. She offered to send me some samples of Green & Black’s Organic chocolate to try in my cooking and I just couldn’t say no! Green & Black’s use quality organic ingredients sourced from farmers who use biodiverse methods of growing cocoa beans to support a more environmentally sustainable ecosystem. So you can feel good about indulging in some chocolate every now and then!

I decided to use the Maya Gold – a dark chocolate blended with cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla and a hint of orange that was inspired by the Maya Indians in southern Belize. It was also the first UK product to be awarded with the Fair Trade Mark. This was my favourite – not too bitter, but richly flavoured and it hit all the right notes. It would make an absolutely killer hot chocolate, I’m sure. To complement the flavours in the chocolate, I made profiteroles filled with a Cointreau and vanilla crème, using my favourite fool-proof recipe for choux pastry and adapting the crème recipe from Gourmet Traveller magazine.

They were delicious, as you can imagine – crispy choux with a creamy interior, dipped into Maya Gold chocolate. Next time I would flavour the crème a little more intensely and cut back on the cream because the flavours were just a little too subtle. It needed a vanilla bean and maybe a cinnamon stick to stand up to the intensity of the chocolate. You could even add some candied orange peel to boost the flavour. But this was an absolutely delicious dessert, and my Dad loved it on Father’s Day. Thanks again to Emma for sending the fantastic Green & Black’s samples!

Profiteroles with Orange Crème and Maya Gold Chocolate
Makes 45-50 profiteroles

Orange Crème (adapted from Gourmet Traveller)
• 200ml milk
• 50ml Cointreau or Grand Marnier
• 6 pieces orange rind, removed with a vegetable peeler
• ½ vanilla bean, seeds scraped
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 3 egg yolks
• 3 tablespoons caster sugar
• 1 tablespoon cornflour
• 100ml thickened cream

Choux Pastry
• 100g unsalted butter
• 1 cup cold water
• 150g plain flour, sifted
• 4 eggs

• 100g Green & Black’s Maya Gold chocolate, melted

1. To make the orange crème, combine milk, 30ml Cointreau, orange rind, vanilla seeds and cinnamon stick in a small saucepan. Bring to the boil and then remove from the head and stand for 15 minutes to infuse.
2. Combine egg yolks and sugar in a bowl and whisk for 2-3 minutes. Add cornflour and whisk to combine Return milk mixture to the heat and bring just to the boil. Strain over egg mixture, whisking continuously and then return to pan. Whisk over medium heat for 3-4 minutes or until thick and smooth. Transfer to bowl, cover closely with plastic and chill completely.
3. When cold, whisk to break up slightly. Add cream and remaining Cointreau and whisk until thick and smooth. Refrigerate until required.
4. To make the choux pastry, preheat the oven to 220°C (430°F) and line a baking tray with non-stick baking paper. Combine butter and water in a large saucepan and bring to the boil over high heat. Add flour and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until mixture leaves the sides of the pan. Remove from the heat and cool for 10 minutes.
5. Add eggs to the mixture, beating vigorously to combine after each addition before adding the next. To make profiteroles, use either a piping bag or a spoon to make 3cm mounds on the baking tray.
6. Bake for 15 minutes. Prick pastries with a skewer or the tip of a small knife and bake for an additional 5 minutes until golden and dry. Cool profiteroles on a wire rack before filling with orange crème. Dip into melted Maya Gold chocolate before serving.

Sweet Sour

I’m a little bit fascinated with kumquats, arguably the cutest member of the citrus family. I remember the first time I saw them at the grocer’s, I picked up a couple to try but got a bit of a surprise with the sweet-sour pow of flavour such a small fruit could contain. I made it my mission to try them in a dessert, which is why I was automatically drawn to the recipe for Pecan Pie in the Tartine Cookbook. How could you go wrong with Pecans, Kumquats, Maple and Bourbon? Yes, that was a rhetorical question!

Traditionally, a pecan pie is usually sweet enough to cause tooth decay on contact but I liked this one a lot because it used an unsweetened flaky pastry, and the tang of the kumquats help to cut through the intense sweetness of the sugar custard. My dad declared this his favourite dessert ever, taking the crown from Carrot Cake. I’d never thought I’d see the day. I noticed that the supply of pecans in the pantry has been replenished, and I’m almost certain he’s counting the days until I make it again.

Reading through the flaky pastry recipe before I started was making me a little bit nervous but it came together very easily in the food processor. The secret is to keep some visible streaks of butter in the dough and to work it as little as possible. If you can’t find kumquats or if they’re not in season, you could also use the grated zest of 1 orange.

Pecan Maple Pie with Kumquats and Bourbon
Adapted from the Tartine Bakery Cookbook
Serves 8 -12

Flaky Tart Dough (Makes two 9-inch tart shells. Recipe can be easily halved)
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 2/3 cup water, very cold
• 3 cups + 2 tablespoons plain flour
• 300g unsalted butter, very cold

Pecan Pie
• ¾ cup sugar
• ½ cup maple syrup
• ½ cup light corn syrup
• 2 tablespoons bourbon
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 55g unsalted butter
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 3 eggs, lightly beaten
• 2 cups pecans, halved
• ½ cup kumquats, thinly sliced, seeds removed
• Whipped cream or ice cream, to serve

1. To make the pie dough, combine the salt and water in a small bowl. Keep very cold until ready to use. Place the flour in the bowl of a food processor. Cut the butter into 1-inch pieces and scatter over the flour. Pulse briefly until the mixture forms large crumbs.
2. Drizzle in the salt water and pulse again until the mixture forms a shaggy mess. You should still be able to see some butter chunks. On a lightly floured work surface, divide the dough into 2 equal balls and shape each into a disc 1-inch thick. Wrap well in plastic and chill for at least 2 hours.
3. Roll the dough out on a lightly floured surface until 3mm thick. Lift and rotate the dough to prevent it from sticking, and work quickly so it remains cold. Carefully transfer the pastry to the lightly greased tart dish, pressing gently into place. Trim the dough with a sharp knife.
4. Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F). Line with baking paper and fill with pie weights. Bake until surface looks light brown, about 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and remove the weights and paper. Bake for a further 5 minutes or until golden brown. Allow to cool completely before filling.
5. To make pecan filling, combine sugar, maple syrup, corn syrup, bourbon and salt in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, for 1 minute.
6. Take off the heat and add the butter, whisking as it melts. Let the mixture cool to room temperature. Set the oven to 180°C (350°F)
7. Add the vanilla and eggs to the cooled mixture and stir to mix well. Stir in the pecans and kumquats, and pour into the prepared pie shell.
8. Bake the pie until the filling is just set, for 40-60 minutes. If the top is browning too quickly, cover with a piece of aluminium foil. Let cool on a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature with whipped cream or ice cream. Store in the fridge for up to 1 week.

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